Athens, Greece 2008
So here we are, waiting for our flight to Naxos, which will be the first of the islands that we visit. Our stay in Athens was exhausting, but fun. Yesterday was our only full day to explore Athens, and we definitely accomplished that. Our hotel was very conveniently located, so we took advantage of walking pretty much everywhere. Instead of taking a formal bus tour of Athens, we decided it would be more fun to explore on our own.
You would think that after such a long trip to Athens – about 6 hours to Munich, then another 2 ½ hours to Athens, that all we would want to do is crash. We didn’t. After meeting with our representative from Homeric Tours at the hotel, we decided to take the map and explore for awhile. We found the Temple of Zeus, which is right off a very busy (and noisy) main street. Our first look at ancient history!


Then it was off to see what we can find. After a bit of wandering, we stumbled onto an area called Syndagma. Syndagma is the neighborhood where Parliament resides and is a central jump point to the many other connecting neighborhoods. We then traveled down Ermou Street which is a main shopping district for higher end clothing. Lots of people. After awhile we found the Flea Market which is an area of small streets with vendors in small shops selling everything from your normal kitschy touristy items to antiques and handmade glass. We decided not to buy anything at that time, as it was getting late and we wanted to find our first meal in Greece. We found a taverna (restaurant) in the Plaka – a very crowded area next to the Flea Market and the Acropolis. It was pretty good. The Greek salad and dolmates (stuffed grape leaves) were delicious. When the bill arrived, we learned our first lesson in Greek dining. When they automatically put bread on your table, it is NOT free! In the US, we are so used to having complimentary bread that it didn’t dawn on us until it was too late that we would have to pay for it. After that, we got wise to this, and everytime thereafter when they sent over a basket of bread, we would tell them to take it away. After a relaxing dinner, we decided to walk back to our hotel and finally went to sleep at about 12:30 AM, which means we were pretty much awake for about 32 hours straight.
The next day, we unbelievably got up early. Our first destination was of course the Acropolis, which is pretty much at the center of the city and

View from the Acropolis
one of the highest points. As the pictures show, it is quite a walk up to it! On our way, we entered a beautiful park and plaza. There was a large rocky area that when we climbed up had an amazing view of the city. Even at this point, the Parthenon was still above us.
After buying our tickets and MUCH NEEDED water, we entered the area where the Parthenon resides. The best way to describe it is awe inspiring! The plateau actually contains several structures, with the Parthenon as its largest inhabitant. The columns are enormous, and it really is a testament to ancient Greece how they were able to construct this without any of the modern machines. To think that we were walking where ancient history actually lived is an experience we will never forget. The other thing we noticed were how many different nationalities there were with us up there. Naturally, we struck up a conversation with a bunch of other people. One of them has a daughter who will be attending Harvard. Roy naturally told her what he does, and gave her a card with an offer to assist. Even thousands of miles away, he’s still working! Oy vey. We also met another 2 couples simulateously. 1 set from Canada and the other from Vermont. It seems we were all having a bit too much of a good time discussing our experiences in Greece that a security officer “kindly” reminded all of us that this was a place to keep our voices down.

View of the Parthenon

The Parthenon

After finishing at the Acropolis, we decided to go into the Monastiraki neighborhood where the flea market is. We then decided to just walk around and get lost in the neighborhood. The great thing about this area is even if you feel like you’re getting lost, you can always look up and use the Acropolis as a reference point. There are also many tavernas in the area that lead down the the Plaka which is next to the Acropolis. We were feeling pretty hungry and a bit tired at this time, so we decided to have a real souvlaki. We found a great place named Thanassis where we sat down (our feet were starting to get a bit tired by now) and have a nice lunch. What we learned at this point, was that there are 2 ways to order a souvlaki. If you just say “souvlaki” you get a whole platter which is much more expensive and too much food. If you say “Pita Souvlaki” you just the sandwich and it is a LOT cheaper! Lunch was followed by some ice cream, but not creamy and heavy like ice cream. The shoppe had about 15 flavors to choose from. How could we resist this?? Even the way they were presented in the cases for people to choose was so different than anything back home.
Lunch certainly rejuvenated us, and it was off to see the changing of the guards at Parliament which happens every hour on the hour. A very interesting display. There are 2 guards posted next to guard houses and they don’t move. People are allowed to stand near them to have their pictures taken. There is an army person that watches the tourists to make sure that they give respect. Then, a few minutes before the top of the hour, 3 men dressed in traditional guard uniforms come marching around the corner into the plaza. Then the incoming and outgoing guards perform a “choreographed” routine to change the posts. This whole exchange takes about 10 minutes and the new guards will remain at their post still as statues until the next top of the hour. 

There are many parts of Athens in addition to where we had already been exploring. Some areas are known for the shopping, some are known for being tourist traps and others for their historical value. We forged into an area known as Kolonaki, which is an area known for its high end shopping. To be truthful, we really didn’t find that many shops which could only be explained by us being lost and in the wrong area. We did get to see a lot of residential areas. Cars parking on sidewalks and in differing directions. No homes, only apartment buildings.

Sculpture made entirely of sheets of glass - Cool!
After several hours of walking around in blistered feet and a feeling a bit grimy, we decided to go back to our hotel and wash up, relax and go out for a nice dinner. Roy had read about a restaurant called “Mono” which is in the Monastiraki area. We took the Metro to Syndagma. It was unlike any other public transportation we have known. The seats are made of cloth, the floors were clean, people weren’t packed in like sardines, and it was easy to understand the announcer to know what stop you were at. After a few attempts to navigate to the restaurant, we were amazed at what we found. It was a “swanky” sort of place and well worth the hype. We had the meatballs and dolmates. Roy had a grilled salmon with grilled vegetables. Sharon had a grilled chicken with a sweet and sour type of sauce. The presentation was amazing when we were served. One thing that we had observed about the restaurants so far, was that the presentation of the food was basic and simple, but outstanding in taste.
After dinner we went back into the flea market to see if we could find some souvenirs for some people and also ourselves. We stumbled upon a shop which sold a lot of handmade beaded jewelry and glass items made by some local artists. This was the first of many stores we found which were offering “low season” discounts. We found some pieces we liked and bartered a bit with the owner. (We read in a book that most store owners are willing to barter…you just need to be careful what you are bartering on).

Athens at night
The next morning we woke up to depart for Naxos. Lessons learned in Athens:
- Don’t let the waiter put bread on the table unless you are willing to pay for it.
- Greek law stipulates that the gratuity is already included in your meal bill. If you feel that the meal and/or service were beyond average, 5-10% additional is acceptable.
- Athens is a dirty and noisy city. However, the friendliness of the people and the magnificence of the ancient ruins make up for it.
- Don’t even think about renting a car or motorscooter in Athens, unless you have a death wish.
- A Greek salad in Greece does not contain the following: pepperocinis, “greek dressing”, or lettuce. The feta is not even crumbled up…just a block on top of some vegetables.